Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Exciting times behind the scenes! Here's a quick glimpse at what’s brewing, and how you will soon shape what comes next:

🧪 Our compound producer Dario Siegel is currently preparing three final versions of “Reflection.” These will arrive shortly, just in time for our Amsterdam Community Meetup on 25 July, where you will help us choose the final fragrance before launch.

🎨 Our design journey has officially begun! We’ve kicked things off with Cansu Ferreira, who’s now working on the brand strategy, visual identity, and packaging of our fragrance publishing house. We’ll share the first creative directions by mid-July — including the long-awaited name reveal.

More very soon. In the meantime, thank you for being part of this adventure.
Sebastian

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Hyperniche, Beauty Wave, and Scent Taxonomy

2. Niche Newcomers: D:SOL, Ensar Oud, Ciatu

3. QUIZ: Which scent quality is rarely, if ever, associated with musk fragrances?

4. Scent MythBusters: Perfumers Strictly Follow Client Briefs Without Personal Preferences

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

#HYPERNICHE In a recent LinkedIn post, Ahmet Sahin (Creative Director at Investi) unpacks the overuse of “niche.” Once a symbol of creative risk, the term is now often a stand-in for high price and vague branding. Sahin argues that real niche needs clarity, not cryptic minimalism. Depth lies in brave compositions, honest storytelling, and an olfactive identity that can’t be confused—or copied.

#FRAGRANCEFRONTLINE A recent McKinsey report shows scent outpacing skincare in global growth. Why? It’s emotional, expressive, and still affordable. As heritage brands scale in Asia and Latin America, disruptors gain ground with bolder blends, smart sampling, and new tech. But growth comes with pressure: big players hedge with crowd-pleasers, while indies fight for attention in a noisy, copycat market.

#CLASSIFYTHIS Ever tried describing a scent and felt words fail you? Osmo’s new Universal Reference Scent Taxonomy aims to fix that. Forget the outdated fragrance wheel—this system offers a living, learning language, built by scientists and perfumers alike. From “buttery aldehydes” to “metallic green cucumber,” it gives shape to the invisible. More than just semantics, it’s a tool for precision, creativity, and cross-cultural dialogue.

Niche Newcomers 🎨 🌟 

Three compelling releases catch our attention this month. D:SOL MMXVI, the German brand split between Berlin and Mallorca with sun at its heart, teams up with perfumer of the hour Michael Nordstrand, fresh off his Art and Olfaction Award win for Bad Lily, to deliver their most meditative creation yet. Ensar Oud, the undisputed king of oud, surprises with an unusually approachable fragrance that might just be the perfect entry point for anyone who's always wanted to try an Ensar creation. Meanwhile, Ciatu, who made waves last year with their category-defining pistachio fragrance at Esxence, returns with another promising scent that showcases their knack for unexpected combinations.

QUIZ 🎲 

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

Think perfumers rigidly adhere to client briefs without allowing their own tastes and preferences to shape their creations? Think again! While perfumers certainly aim to fulfil brand visions and market demands, their personal style, crafted over years through favourite accords, materials, and olfactory signatures inevitably shines through in their work.

Perfumers’ Signature Styles

The Aromatic Reality 🤔

Many assume perfumers approach each fragrance project purely guided by client briefs, keeping their personal biases completely aside. In reality, just like artists or musicians, perfumers have distinctive "olfactory DNAs", favourite materials and accords, that subtly or overtly permeate their creations. Even commissioned fragrances are often influenced by these personal signatures.

Dominique Ropion – The White Floral Virtuoso 🌸

Dominique Ropion, celebrated for his lush white floral compositions, repeatedly explores this theme across multiple fragrance brands. His expertise with flowers like tuberose, jasmine, and gardenia defines many of his creations, from Frederic Malle’s Carnal Flower to Viktor & Rolf’s Flowerbomb. This consistent return to favourite notes exemplifies his unmistakable personal signature.

Alberto Morillas – Musk’s Maestro 🌬️

Alberto Morillas consistently showcases a love for transparent, airy musk accords. His signature clean and sensual musks notably appear in iconic fragrances such as CK One, Gucci Bloom, and Bulgari Omnia. Regardless of differing briefs, Morillas’s affinity for musk subtly shapes the character of his perfumes.

Mark Buxton – Urban Sophistication 🎩

Mark Buxton, known for his refined yet contemporary aesthetic, often incorporates vibrant, woody, and subtly smoky notes into his compositions. Whether working for Comme des Garçons, Le Labo, or his own fragrance line, Buxton’s modern, urban sensibility consistently emerges, highlighting his unique and identifiable style.

So, is the myth busted?

Partially! While perfumers respect and follow client briefs, the assumption that they leave their personal preferences completely behind is mistaken. A perfumer's individual style, shaped by favoured materials and beloved accords, inevitably enhances and enriches their commissioned fragrances, creating signature identities recognised by fragrance enthusiasts.