Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? The world’s largest private perfume bottle collection, featuring 5,410 unique bottles, belongs to Anna Leventeri of Greece, officially recorded by Guinness World Records​.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Fall fragrances, Mexico Boom, and Rare Bottles 🍂🇲🇽 

2. Scent Picks: Beautyworld Middle East Finalists 🇦🇪🥇 

3. Scent MythBusters: All the time, perfumers get access to new ingredients 🧪💫

4. QUIZ: A soapy citrus 🧼🍋?

5. Flower Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Neroli 🍊 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• #FALLFRAGRANCES: TikTok’s Fall 2024 fragrance trends lean toward indulgence, with vanilla and caramel gourmands dominating nearly 3 million searches—a 141% increase. Gender-neutral scents are up 202%, mirroring a rise in fragrance inclusivity, while unique, high-quality niche scents highlight individual expression. “Perfume aesthetics” surged 1000%, showing bottles are just as captivating as their contents. Meanwhile, oud maintains its timeless appeal, anchoring the top five with its warm, woody notes.

• #MEXICOBOOM: Luxury fragrance brands are finding fertile ground in Mexico City, with Le Labo, Kilian, and local innovators like My Scent Journey supporting niche labels from around the world. Mexico’s rich biodiversity and a deep-rooted love for scent, described by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux as a "highly educated nose," are key to this niche boom. Despite high customs fees, which challenge pricing, the market is expanding, strengthened by new consumer events like MxScent. As global demand for fine fragrances grows, Mexico’s influence in the luxury scent world is expected to continue blossoming.

• #RAREBOTTLES: This season, Sotheby’s Paris presents a collection of rare 18th-century porcelain perfume bottles from Italian collector Gianni Giordano. Featuring over 100 exquisite pieces from Europe’s top porcelain houses—Meissen, Capodimonte, Chelsea, and more—the collection showcases designs like dual-chamber parrot bottles and whimsical peacocks. Richard Hird of Sotheby’s compares the set to the finest museum collections, noting its diversity and cultural value.

Beautyworld Middle East 2024 💄🇦🇪

Beautyworld Middle East 2024, the region's premier beauty and fragrance fair, concluded yesterday, marking another successful year of setting standards in innovation and creativity across the industry. This annual event attracts top global brands and experts, offering a platform to showcase cutting-edge beauty technologies, trends, and the rich cultural heritage of Middle Eastern perfumery.

A Selection of Nominations for Niche Fragrance of the Year 2024

A Selection of Nominations for Popular Fragrance Of The Year

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

Perfumers aren’t discovering new natural ingredients every year. While it’s a charming idea, truly new natural materials are rare. Instead, fragrance innovation often comes from lab-made molecules, including captive molecules exclusive to certain fragrance houses. Occasionally, fresh naturals like mugwort, Australian sandalwood CO₂ extract, or nopal cactus are introduced, but these are the exceptions. Real expansion in perfumery often relies on synthetic chemistry and proprietary molecules, which unlock novel, unique olfactory experiences not found in nature.

Unpacking the New Ingredients Myth 🌿🔬

The Temptation of Endless Natural Discovery 🌍✨

Many imagine perfumers as explorers, constantly unearthing exotic plants to transform into fragrances. This romantic notion suggests nature offers an unlimited supply of new scents ready to be captured.

The Reality Check 🛑

In truth, most plants suitable for perfumery have already been identified. The introduction of genuinely new natural ingredients is infrequent due to ecological, regulatory, and economic constraints.

Rare Occurrences: Recent Natural Additions 🌱💎

While uncommon, there are instances where new natural materials have been introduced:

1️⃣ Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris) 🌿

• Profile: Offers an herbal, green scent with a hint of camphor and a touch of bitterness.

• Why It's Notable: Provides a fresh, unconventional twist to herbal fragrances, standing out from more common aromatics like lavender or rosemary.

2️⃣ Australian Sandalwood CO₂ Extract (Santalum spicatum) 🌳

• Profile: Delivers a creamy, woody aroma with milder sweetness compared to traditional sandalwood.

• Why It's Notable: Captured through CO₂ extraction, it offers a sustainable alternative to overharvested sandalwood species, preserving unique woody notes.

3️⃣ Nopal Cactus (Opuntia ficus-indica) 🌵

• Profile: Introduces a crisp, green note with watery freshness and subtle vegetal nuances.

• Why It's Notable: Brings a modern, desert-inspired facet to fragrances, uncommon in traditional perfumery.

The Synthetic Frontier: Where Innovation Thrives 🧪🚀

Unlike naturals, synthetic molecules offer endless possibilities. Each year, chemists develop new aromatic compounds that expand the perfumer's palette.

Recent Synthetic Highlights 🌟

Perfumers often look to synthetic molecules for innovation, and recent years have seen exciting new additions:

1️⃣ Akigalawood (2014) 🌿

• Profile: Combines spicy pepper notes with rich, woody facets reminiscent of patchouli and oud, yet lighter and more vibrant.

• Impact: Introduced by Givaudan in 2014, Akigalawood adds a dynamic, sophisticated woodiness that enhances fragrances without overwhelming them.

2️⃣ Clearwood (2014) 🌱

• Profile: A clean, soft interpretation of patchouli, free from its earthy and musty aspects, with transparent woody and amber nuances.

• Impact: Developed by Firmenich in 2014 using white biotechnology, Clearwood allows perfumers to incorporate the essence of patchouli with a modern clarity, opening up new possibilities in fragrance design.

3️⃣ Edenolide (2018) 🌸

• Profile: A delicate, creamy musk with subtle fruity undertones and a soft floral character.

• Impact: Launched by IFF in 2018, Edenolide offers a long-lasting, elegant musk note that adds a sensual softness to fragrances without heaviness.

Captive Molecules: The Exclusive Edge 🔐

Some fragrance houses develop proprietary synthetic molecules known as captive molecules.

• What They Are: Unique scent molecules patented or kept secret by a fragrance company, used exclusively in their creations.

• Why They Matter: Allow perfumers to craft fragrances with scent profiles that competitors can't replicate, offering a competitive advantage.

• Example: Firmenich's Paradisone—an intensified version of Hedione that adds exceptional radiance to floral fragrances, available only to Firmenich perfumers.

Why New Naturals Are Rare 🧐

Environmental Concerns 🌳⚖️

• Ecological Impact: Harvesting new plant species can disrupt ecosystems and threaten biodiversity.

• Sustainable Sourcing: Ethical considerations limit exploitation of rare or slow-growing botanicals.

Regulatory Hurdles 📋🚫

• Safety Testing: New naturals require extensive evaluation for allergens and toxicology, which is time-consuming and expensive.

• Compliance: Meeting the varied regulations of global markets adds complexity.

Economic Factors 💰

• Scalability: Cultivating a new plant for commercial use involves significant investment with uncertain returns.

• Market Demand: Without clear demand, introducing a new natural ingredient poses financial risks.

The Role of Advanced Extraction Techniques 🛠️✨

When "new" naturals emerge, they often result from innovative extraction methods applied to existing plants, revealing previously untapped scent facets.

Examples:

• Fractional Distillation: Separates essential oils into components, isolating specific scent notes like the clean, citrusy aspects of vetiver.

• CO₂ Extraction: Uses supercritical carbon dioxide to gently extract fragrance compounds, capturing delicate notes lost in traditional methods.

QUIZ 🎲

All You Need to Know About Neroli 🍊

What is Neroli?

Neroli is an essential oil extracted from the fragrant blossoms of the bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium var. amara), a member of the Rutaceae family. Native to the Mediterranean and subtropical regions, neroli oil is cherished for its gripping, fresh, and slightly sweet aroma with citrusy undertones. The scent is both uplifting and calming, making it a prised ingredient in perfumery and aromatherapy.

Origin 📍

The bitter orange tree originated in Southeast Asia but was brought to the Mediterranean by Arabs in the 11th century. The name "neroli" is believed to have been derived from Anne Marie Orsini, the 17th-century Princess of Nerola in Italy, who popularised the essence by using it to perfume her gloves and bathwater. Today, neroli is predominantly produced in countries like Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt, and parts of Italy and France.

Key Facts 📔

• Scent Profile: Fresh, floral, and sweet with citrusy notes; hints of green and slightly spicy undertones.

• Main Components: Linalool, limonene, linalyl acetate, nerolidol, and various monoterpenes.

• Harvest Time: Late April to early May during the spring bloom.

• Uses: Perfumery, aromatherapy for stress relief and mood enhancement, skincare products for its rejuvenating properties.

Cultivation 🧑‍🌾

The bitter orange tree thrives in subtropical climates with well-drained, fertile soils. It prefers full sun and is moderately drought-tolerant. The tree can grow up to 10 meters tall and is valued not only for its blossoms but also for its fruit, used in marmalades and liqueurs like Grand Marnier. Major cultivation areas include:

• Tunisia: One of the largest producers of neroli oil.

• Morocco: Known for high-quality neroli and other citrus oils.

• Egypt: Significant production for both local use and export.

• Southern France and Italy: Traditional cultivation regions with a rich history in perfumery.

From Harvest to Essential Oil: The Extraction Process 🌿

Harvesting ✂️

Timing: Flowers are hand-picked early in the morning to preserve their delicate aroma, usually in April and May.

Method: Harvesting is labor-intensive due to the short blooming period and the need for immediate processing. Care is taken to avoid bruising the flowers, which can affect the oil's quality.

Processing ⚙️

• Steam Distillation: The primary method used to extract neroli essential oil.

  • Yield: Approximately 0.8–1 kg of oil from 1,000 kg of blossoms, making it a highly valued and expensive oil.

• Solvent Extraction: Used to produce orange blossom absolute and concrete.

  • Yield: Higher than steam distillation but results in different aromatic profiles.

Products Obtained 📦️

• Neroli Essential Oil: A pale yellow oil with a light, sweet, and floral aroma.

• Orange Blossom Absolute: A more concentrated extract used in high-end perfumery.

• Orange Flower Water (Hydrosol): A byproduct of distillation, used in cosmetics and culinary applications.

Use in Perfumery 🛢️

Neroli is treasured in perfumery for its fresh, floral, and uplifting scent. It serves as a top to middle note, bringing brightness and elegance to fragrances. Neroli blends well with:

• Citrus Notes: Bergamot, lemon, orange.

• Floral Notes: Jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang.

• Woody Notes: Sandalwood, cedarwood.

• Other Accords: Lavender, rosemary, petitgrain (from the same tree's leaves and twigs).

Iconic Neroli Fragrances 💫

• Eau de Cologne by Farina (1709): One of the earliest and most enduring colognes featuring neroli, offering a fresh and invigorating scent that has captivated wearers for centuries.

• Neroli Amara by Van Cleef & Arpels (2018): A luxurious interpretation of neroli, accentuated by citrus notes, pink pepper, and warm amber, offering a refined and elegant aroma.

• L'Eau de Neroli by Diptyque (2008): An much discussed blend where neroli mingles with floral and green notes, creating a refreshing and timeless fragrance.

• Néroli Outrenoir by Guerlain (2016): A rich and intense composition that juxtaposes the brightness of neroli with smoky tea accords, delivering a complex and distinguishable scent profile.